1. Choose a liquid-applied waterproofing membrane.

A liquid-applied elastomeric membrane, as opposed to the majority of other techniques of waterproofing, forms a continuous barrier that also encompasses the drain assembly. The membrane offers a covering that is uniformly thin, smooth, and monolithic over an area of any shape or size, in any arrangement, and on surfaces that are horizontal, vertical, or above. The liquid is applied to the substrate by trowelling, rolling, or spraying it, and then it is let to dry. It is not an issue at all if there is room for changes in the plane since you can use mesh tape to assist you to bridge the gap.

In addition to providing crack isolation, certain liquids, such as Polyurethane Membranes for Waterproofing and Crack Prevention Membrane, are able to surpass the requirements of the ANSI A118.10 and A118.12 standards. Polyurethane membranes are approved for use as an IAPMO shower pan liner and comply with a wide variety of stringent plumbing and construction requirements. A waterproofing membrane, which has a low perm rating, is an excellent choice for the proper management of moisture vapor in environments such as steam rooms and gang showers.

Additionally, Ark Waterproofing provides a liquid solution that dries at an even quicker rate. This one-of-a-kind recipe is effective even when applied in chilly or wet environments.

2. Tip number two is to provide adequate drainage.

The shower floor and tile assembly must have the appropriate pitch in order to correctly funnel water runoff down the drain, regardless of the size of the shower. It is recommended by the Tile Council of North America that mortar beds in showers be sloped 14 inches per foot down to the drain. The waterproofing membrane is put on top of the mortar bed rather than underneath it, as is shown in detail B421 of the TCNA specification. Because of this procedure, neither the mortar bed nor the substrate will become completely soaked in water. In the event that the membrane is laid on top of the mortar bed, a pre-slope made of cement must be installed underneath the membrane.

Always secure the liquid membrane to the drain by affixing it to the flange at the bottom of the drain and clamping it into position. The next step is to keep the weep holes from being clogged by mortar by surrounding the drain with pea gravel or using a weep guard. Drain strainers should be arranged such that they are flush with the ultimate tile surface rather than positioned above it. It is necessary to secure the drain assemblies properly to prevent them from bending and causing damage to the membrane.

3. The third piece of advice is to meticulously prepare all of the substrates.

In addition to the floor having a slope of 1/4 inch per foot towards the drain, you should make sure that any horizontal surfaces, such as chairs and shelves, have a slope and are smooth. There should also not be any low places or bird baths that may collect water. The presence of standing water in a shower can cause the natural stone to become discolored, the fixture to fail prematurely, efflorescence to form, and the growth of mold and mildew.

Shower walls need to be squared off, leveled, and waterproofed with a membrane that extends all the way to the top of the area that will be tiled. In showers or even tub surrounds, drywall or green board are not appropriate building materials to employ.

By utilizing a water-resistant cement backer board, you may produce a substrate that is ideal for tiling the walls. Make sure that all of the surfaces of the walls and floors are clean, dry, and in good structural condition before putting the membrane. It is possible for pollutants such as dust, residues, and other particles to hinder the waterproofing membrane from properly bonding.

4. Tip number four is to always follow the directions provided by the manufacturer.

Because maintaining the waterproofing membrane’s integrity is of the utmost importance, it is imperative that the manufacturer’s instructions be strictly adhered to at all times. Make certain that the membrane is applied at the required coverage rate or thickness, that there are no voids or pinholes, and that a continuous layer is produced. Between coats, liquid membranes need to have sufficient time to completely cure. It is recommended that a fiberglass mesh tape be implanted on the transition from the drain, and it is possible that this will be required for strengthening at changes of plane and plumbing protrusions.

After the membrane has been applied, take precautions to safeguard it from being pierced, soiled, or otherwise harmed by subsequent trades. Before laying the tile, you should not forget to do flood testing. In the extremely unlikely event that you will need to fix a flaw in the membrane, doing so before the tile is set and grouted will be an immeasurably simpler and more cost-effective process.

5. Use a high-performance installation system.

Showers are difficult spaces that require high-performance tile installation materials in order to be functional. This is especially the case when the shower walls are clad in thin-gauge porcelain tile, natural stone, or large-format porcelain tile. Because of the size, weight, and moisture content of these components, a mortar that satisfies the requirements of A118.15T should be used. These thixotropic mortars, when created for big format tile and stone, will assist keep the heavy tile in place on walls without allowing it to droop. This is because of the mortar’s ability to thicken.

After the curing process is complete, cement-based grout in showers has to be sealed, and then it needs to be resealed every year. Alternatively, you might decide to go with a grout like Fusion Pro Single Component Grout that does not need to be sealed. A sealant that is flexible and resistant to mildew, such as Commercial 100% Silicone Sealant, should be used to fill soft movement joints, plumbing protrusions, and changes of plane in the tile assembly.